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How to Sew the Vestments Set

Instructions for Sewing

the Vestments Set

for the Orthodox Christian

Catechesis of the Good Shepherd church school curriculum

Kit Materials Included

  • Storage box
  • Manikin (may differ from the one in the photos)
  • Pre-printed cotton fabric for inner and outer vestments
  • Pre-cut cotton fabric for cassock
  • Small vestment pieces prepared for final steps
  • Black, white, and gold thread
  • Sew-on Velcro (4”)
  • Black felt

Supplies Needed

  • Sewing machine
  • Basic sewing tools
  • Turning tool
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Glue stick

    Sewing Instructions

    Cassock

    1. Cut out the fabric from inside the pre-sewn neckline (see photo from the first Sticharion step below).
    2. Hem the bottom hems and the sleeve cuffs with a 1/4" rolled hem.
    3. Fold the cassock in half along the shoulders so that it is inside out and pin.
    4. Sew both sides closed from the sleeve cuff down to the hem, pivoting at the armpit, with a 1/8"-1/4" seam allowance. 
    5. Go back over both seams with a zig-zag stitch to prevent the edges from fraying. A setting of 2-3 for length and 2-3 for width works well.
    6. Turn right side out.

    Priest Sticharion

    1. Cut out the sticharion along the black outline. Cut out the fabric from inside the pre-sewn neckline. Snip the four red diagonal lines in each armpit.
    2. Using the gold thread: Fold one of the bottom edges up to the edge of the first gold stripe, then fold again so the finished edge is along the gold stripe. Sew a straight stitch across the folded hem to secure; repeat on the other side.
    3. Switch to white thread; sew a ¼” rolled hem on both sleeve cuffs.
    4. Hem the unfinished edges (underarms and body) by folding the edge back ¼” (fold once) and secure with a straight stitch. Sew continuously from the sleeve cuff to the bottom hem (or vice versa), going through the armpit to strengthen the corner where the snip was made. Seam allowance is important as it can make the sticharion too tight if the hem is folded more than 1/4".
    5. Fold the sticharion in half with right sides together so that the bottom hems match and pin.
    6. Sew the sleeves shut from the cuff up to the short red line, sewing as close to the folded edge as possible to keep the cuff opening large enough to put on the manikin. Sew the sides shut from the bottom hem up to the short red line. There will be a wide opening under the armpit to fasten the belt (zone) properly.
    7. Turn right side out.

    Epimanikia (Cuffs) – for Priest and Deacon

    1. Cut four pieces of Velcro 1/4” wide (this is an update to the pattern; the photos have the old instruction of 1/2" width, but the cuffs seem to fall off the manikin).
    2. Sew the Velcro to each epimanikia like so: 

    3. Cut out each epimanikia around the Velcro and along the edge of the satin stitches, trimming threads as you go. (Some of the photos below show satin fabric; your kit is upgraded to the cotton fabric that is far easier to sew with and will last longer).

       

      Epitrachelion (Priest Stole)

      1. Cut out the neck hole and cut off the excess fabric around the epitrachelion right along the edge of the stitches.  

      Zone (Belt)

      1. Cut a ½” piece of Velcro.
      2. Sew the Velcro to the zone: hooks on the front side at one end of the zone, and loops on the back side at the other end of the zone.
      3. Cut off the excess fabric right along the edge of the satin stitches. 

      Epigonation (Shield)

      1. Cut off the excess fabric right along the edge of the stitches; don’t cut off the ribbon. Trim from the back of the shield to remind you not to cut through the ribbon (yes, I did this once).

      Orarion (Deacon Stole)

      1. Cut two ½” sets of Velcro (hooks and loops).
      2. At the 9.5” mark: sew the hooks to the back side and the loops to the front side. Hold the orarion up to the light to match up the velcro placement. Use a dab of glue to keep the Velcro in place as you sew. 
      3. At the 19” mark: sew the hooks to the back side. Save the 1/2” piece of loops remaining to sew onto the deacon’s sticharion.
      4. Cut off the excess fabric right along the edge of the satin stitches.

      Deacon Sticharion (Outer Garment)

      1. Cut out the sticharion outer fabric and liner on the black line.
      2. Place outer and liner right sides together with the outer fabric on the top (so you can see the pattern through the wrong side of the fabric). Make sure the cross on the outer fabric is on top of the logo on the liner fabric. Pin securely.
      3. Leaving a turning hole about 2” wide in the bottom back of the sticharion, sew along the edge of the gold trim all the way around.
      4. Clip the 90* corners perpendicular to the stitches (do not clip the stitches!) and make snips into the armpit corners up to the stitches. If there are black cut lines remaining, trim them off.
      5. Turn the sticharion right side out and iron the seams flat.
      6. Close the turning hole with a straight stitch on your machine, or an invisible ladder stitch by hand. 
      7. Pin near the neck to keep the two layers from slipping, then use a satin stitch to sew around the neckline (like the priest sticharion and epitrachelion as it came in your kit). Sew right on the line. Cut out the neck hole along the edge of the stitches.
      8. Take the remaining piece of Velcro (loops side) and sew it onto the sticharion’s left shoulder (as worn). Place it lengthwise along the shoulder so it is in line with the long axis of the neck opening, and close to the satin stitches around the neck.
      9. Fold the sticharion in half so that it makes a completed garment, then close up the arms and sides:
        1. Mark five places on each side to close the sticharion, replicating the buttons used on the real deacon’s sticharion, two under the arm and three down the side.
        2. Hand sew together with several close loops, like on a button.

      Phelonion (Priest Outer Garment)

      1. Cut out the phelonion fabric (outer and liner) along the black line.
      2. Shoulder darts: fold the fabric as shown in the photo below & pin. Mark a point 1/2” down the fold, then draw a line to the corner of the fabric. Sew on the line; repeat for all four shoulders (outer and liner).
      1. Pin the outer and liner fabrics together, right sides facing, with the outer fabric layer on top (so you can see the pattern through the wrong side of the fabric). Pin the shoulder darts so that the darts are folded toward the center on the top, and toward the outside on the bottom (so they are laid flat in the opposite directions on top and bottom as you sew). Mark a turning hole about 2" wide at the bottom.
      2. Sew the fabric together along the bottom edge of the “trim” that is printed onto the fabric, going all the way around to the other side of your turning hole. Use a 3/8” seam allowance around the top of the fabric where there is no printed-on trim. Sew right over the shoulder darts and curve around the neckline.
      3. Clip the 90* corners perpendicular to the stitches (do not clip the stitches!) and make cuts into the seam allowance along convex curves. If there are black cut lines remaining, trim them off.
      4. Turn the phelonion right side out, using a turning tool to gently poke out the corners and smooth the seams. Iron the seams flat.
      5. Hand sew the front closed with a whipstitch on the inside (stitching through the liner fabric only).
      6. Close the turning hole with a straight stitch, or consider sewing all the way around the bottom edge of the phelonion with a decorative stitch.

      Hat – for Priest and Deacon

      Hand sewing:

      1. Take an arms-length of black (or dark) thread, thread it on to a needle, and tie the ends together.
      2. Turn the rectangular piece of felt into a loop with the short edges touching.
      3. Sew the short edges together without any overlap.
      4. When you get to the end, take the circle piece of felt and set it on top of the loop.
      5. Sew the circle to the top of the loop with a straight stitch so that the cut edges of the loop and the circle stick out toward you, and your stitches are going up through the loop fabric (about 1/8" from the edge) and up through the circle fabric (about 1/8" from the edge), then down through the circle and down through the loop. You're trying to make a lip that sticks out horizontally.
      6. Sew all the way around the loop.
      7. Secure your stitches and cut the thread.

       

      Here is your finished set of the Priest's Vestments (except the cassock):

      Here is your finished set of the Deacon's Vestments (except the cassock):